Hitchhiking and Praying in Yushu, Tibet

Whenever I go to Tibet, I hitchhike. Sticking out my thumb to find a ride seems less frightening on the Qinghai-Tibetan Plateau than in the United States.  To this day I wonder why I am more willing to trust so far removed from my home.  Why do I feel safer on the rooftop of the world than in my own homeland?

A small section of Gyanak Mani Stone Pile
Photo: Emily Bigelow

In the summer of 2016, I was staying a bit out of the so-called 'city' of Yushu by the Gyanak Mani Stone Pile, a place which, at first glance, is a very large pile of rocks—is one square kilometer containing a reported half a billion stones enough to catch your interest?  At further inspection, each stone, varied in size, has a mantra or image carved and painted painted into its surface.  Every day, all day, practitioners circumambulate this massive collection of mani stones reciting prayers and thumbing mala beads.  Each step: a step toward nirvana; each rub of a bead: a reminder of the thousands of mantras recited and the thousands to come.  To walk among the crowds was humbling, and consumed me in the power of sangha, community.  Without it, I am like a drop of water in the desert.  With it, I am part of the sea.

A skilled rider and his horse
Photo: Meg Ferrigno

The end of July brings the Horse Festival to Yushu.  People from all over descend upon the grasslands to celebrate the beauty of Tibet: both the land and the people.  The main arena houses the horse races, while further down the road are competitions and shows ranging from fashion, dancing, and music, to (arguably the most exciting) horse riding skill showcases.  Men ride down a strip of grassland while performing a variety of feats: riding while brandishing a sword or bow, jumping from side to side of a galloping horse, performing acrobatic wonders atop speeding horses, and more.  Sitting there cheering alongside chupa-clad men, women, and children, my heart melted in appreciation for this vibrant community and the people who veraciously maintain, protect, and enjoy their Tibetan identity.

Gyanak Mani Stone Pile statues
Photo: Emily Bigelow

Thumbing my way between the festival and my guesthouse by the mani stones became a daily reminder of the kindness of people.  No problem, they’d say when I asked if they wanted any compensation for driving me. We’re friends here. Well, thank you for the memories, and for delivering me safely to my destination.  Thank you to the apprentice for discussing your thangka painting process with me.  Thank you to the little girl who was so excited to meet a foreigner and invited me to her dance performance.  Thank you to the land, to the people, to my heart home, for once again opening up and allowing me to sink in to the ethereal wondrous beauty that is Tibet.

Yushu from above
Photo: Emily Bigelow

If you want the opportunity to travel to Tibet and experience this for yourself, there are openings on the Pureland Project's May and August trips.
The August trip is open to the public. For pricing and itinerary, please go to http://www.thepurelandproject.org/tours-page.

In May, the Pureland Project has one full scholarship for a Native American participant who is working or aspires to work with issues of cultural sustainability, resilience, or traditional arts or healing.  This sponsored trip is offered the intention of supporting and fostering the connection between Tibetans and Native Americans. For information please contact thepurelandproject@gmail.com directly.